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Post by Markpd on Jan 14, 2023 9:26:47 GMT -8
Traditional Split Intro Guide
The Split Intro: How and Why
One of the reasons that gerbils make great pets is that they are very social animals. It's great fun to watch them interact with each other—grooming, napping, and boxing. Because gerbils have a strong sense of who is familiar and who is not, two strange adult gerbils will fight if they are not properly introduced, and an adult might attack a strange pup. This post outlines the best way to introduce two gerbils that either have never met, lived together previously or need to be re-introduced for some reason.
To introduce 2 adult gerbils to each other, or 1 or more pups to an adult you'll need a split tank, as in a tank with a divider in it. For how to make a divider, see LilyandDaisy's wooden framed mesh guide here (no power tools needed), or other frameless divider guides in the DIY section, including in the old Split Intro guide. It needs to be :- Max 20 gallons tank (~60cm/2ft long), or 20 gallons of a bigger tank sectioned off and then divided in 2, giving 10 gallons for each adult. Meshed divider, securely fastened (1/4" mesh with pups and for adults earlier on in the split. If going well this can be swapped for a 1/2" meshed divider near the end of the split for adults to allow some contact)
Minimal bedding - max 5cm/2"
No 'toys', but some chew toys are ok. e.g cardboard, hay and nesting material.
Swap the gerbils end to end, preferably 3 times a day (but if you can't, once per day is the next best option so they end up staying in the other side overnight).
Here is a photo of a traditional split tank. This is a 60x30x30cm tank. They have just inch or two of bedding, a couple of sticks to chew, water bottles and scattered food. 
Signs to look out for before swapping
Negative signs, in general order of severity, include:
- Signs of overt aggression such as puffing up fur, chasing the other gerbil up and down the divider, tail wagging, teeth chattering, arched back, attempting to attack the other gerbil through the divider (sometimes gerbils will bite the mesh just because they want to get back to the other side they were just on. This is a sign of anxiety but not necessarily aggression).
- Destroying the other gerbil's nest
- Scent marking - However when introducing an adult to a young pup, it's not usually something to worry about when there's some minor scent marking from the adult, as long as everything else looks good.
- Rearranging everything, and taking a long time to settle down.
- General agitation, anxiety and stress behaviour.
Positive signs are mostly the absence of the aforementioned negative signs. The ideal is for the gerbils once swapped, to just take a moment to get their bearings, and then switch right back to whatever they were doing before, so they might settle down right away to eat, or to sleep in the other gerbil's nest without lots of sniffing around or rearranging things. (For a little more detail on this see LilyandDaisy's and betty's posts about it here).
Typical Split Intro Durations
Typical duration for adults, 2-4 weeks (can go on much longer if they've not bonded in the typical time). Typical duration for pups, or pup(s*) with an adult, a few hours to a few days. *we'd advise to intro an adult to just 1 pup, not more, due to increased risk of declanning when the pups grow up. Preparations before removing the divider (For either a pup or adult intro)
Before you remove the divider, you should have something ready which is narrow and rigid to separate the gerbils (e.g a piece of cardboard) or wear a thick glove if needed, and a pot to put over one of them, in case the initial intro doesn't go well! Don't put your bare hand in there, otherwise you could get bitten! Also you'll want to be sure you can watch them constantly for about 3/4 hr once the divider is removed, then be next to the tank for a couple of hours, and then nearby for the rest of the day.
If after removing the divider you're still not sure they're getting on well by the end of that day (or if you unexpectedly have/need to go out), you can always put the divider back in and delay the intro until the next day, or longer if need be, but keep swapping them over in which case.
If the intro is a bit tense and they're not settling down (but not fighting either), then you could try adding an open sided shelter. ps25 did this with success with a few cases, see ps25's thread about it here for more details. And also from a thread created by ps25:- Good and bad signs once the gerbils are introduced
Good signsSniffing faces and butts Lowering the head to allow "kissing" Relaxed, smooth movements Smooth fur Ears forward Ignoring each other (going about their business eg eating, chewing cardboard) Some minor tussles to establish dominance (one walks away and is not followed) Grooming Adult gerbil largely ignoring a pup gerbil being pesky and not reacting aggressively (the occasional moment of pinning down with one paw is ok) Bad signsFur fluffed up to make them look bigger Ears laid flat Jerky movements Positioning themselves sideways, especially with backs curved (looks like a big furry comma, or like 2 cats arching their backs before a fight) Tussles with continued pestering/following immediately after Holding the other gerbil down Staying in a corner Squeaking Thumping Tail swishing Furious chasing around the cage (as in you can barely see them running, and they're banging into the side!)
They go face to face, barely moving and just stare at each other for a while (then one might move in slowly to e.g attempt to groom the other, this could either trigger a fight or the receiving gerbil might accept this and they'll be ok). Modified Split Tank Intro Guide
An alternative to the regular split intro starts off like a permanently split cage, whereby gerbils live side by side in their full set ups, and without swapping them end to end for the first few weeks or more until they are settled living next to each other. This can be a useful technique where one or both gerbils have been traumatised (by e.g a bad declann with some other gerbil, or have been badly treated or housed by a former owner or are simply very nervous). The hope is it gives them time to calm down and be ready for a split intro later on. If they get on living side by side, this also gives you an indication as to whether they'll be able to get along living together. If they can't, then obviously they should not be split intro'd (or at least until when or if they settle down living side by side, if they don't then they should live in separate cages, or the meshed divider should be replaced with a solid non-transparent divider).
If they can get along side by side, then the perm split cage setup can be gradually* phased into traditional split intro by starting with swapping sides, gradually reducing bedding, enrichment and space and eventually attempting an introduction, but the whole process is much slower than a traditional split intro.
*Longer/phased splits don't have a set timetable, it's much more based on your own judgement and intuition (in reference to the aforementioned pre-intro signs), although that's important with normal splits too.
Just be aware, that just because they get along side by side, that doesn't mean they definitely will get along when eventually introduced to each other!
And here's another variation of the traditional split intro by TJ's Rodent Ranch
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Jan 15, 2023 17:18:10 GMT -8
I think the traditional recommendation is a 15 or 20 gallon tank for a split. Of course that doesn't mean a bigger tank is necessarily wrong.
Personally I would take the approach of first describing the most common, "traditional" split tank method which involves:
- Small tank - around 60cm long
- Shallow bedding - 1-2 inches
- No toys
- 3 swaps a day
And then adding some discussion of the fact that some people choose to tweak this method or do it slightly differently, for example allowing more enrichment or using bigger tanks.
It's not a topic on which there's really a proven right way to do it, just the most popular way.
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Post by Markpd on Feb 4, 2023 7:22:03 GMT -8
Pasting a couple of your and others replies here from other threads for reference. And I'm going to move this thread to the members area for (possibly) more input, and viewing.
There is an alternative to the typical small tank split method where you start with a larger tank, set it up like a normal tank with deep bedding, enrichment etc, and then just let the gerbils [live] side-by-side for a while without even swapping sides. Later on you start swapping sides, gradually reducing bedding, enrichment and space and eventually attempting an introduction, but the whole process is much slower. It might be a good option in this situation and especially with your previous bad experiences. It gives the gerbils some time to calm down from the declan as well. A single pup is safer but you could try a pair. I think it's less risky with males than with females. But if you're happy to introduce another gerbil in a few months, a single pup is probably the better option. I would probably go smaller than 40 gallons for a split tank for a pup intro. It's supposed to be a very quick intro so I'd go for a standard 60cmish tank personally. I wouldn't even bother with toys really because it could be over so quickly. Maybe just some cardboard and hay. I've never done it myself, but I gather introducing a pup to a male gerbil is even easier than introducing one to a female gerbil and a few hours in a split tank can sometimes be enough, or if not a couple of days. This isn't like an adult introduction where you need their scents to be distributed on both sides which takes time. A split tank introduction with a very young pup is really about making sure they (mostly the adult) are not going to be aggressive. Some people will do a neutral space introduction with male gerbils and pups which I can't really comment on though I know it's quite risky with females. Males are generally gentler with pups than females. Even with males, it still has to be safer to use a split tank for the first meeting, even if only for a couple of hours. I think in general, half inch mesh is a little wide for a split because gerbils could do some real damage through it. I wouldn't ever use it with adults except later in an introduction when I can trust them. With a pup it would probably be okay (since the risk of aggression is low anyway), but if you're making a divider for future use, it would be better to use smaller mesh. 1-2 inches of bedding is about right. Here is a recent pup introduction thread I was on: gerbilforum.proboards.com/thread/35959/first-introduction-journeyYes, I have had adult males to pups in a day - but it had to be the right male (and some of those were mob-intros so that isn't often an option for non-breeders). I would certainly expect an older male-to-pup to be just a few days if the older male isn't bothered at all. Adding to the behaviours on the other thread - I always feel happy when I seen the older male either acting like the pup isn't there at all - or doing what I can only describe as the 'straining' or 'breath-holding' pose - where the pup is in their face or nearby and they just sort of stand totally still but look like they are really concentrating on something. I imagine them to be thinking 'it's a pup and it will be annoying but if I just let it do what it wants to do without moving - it will go away quicker'. As said above I would always use a divide for first meeting no matter what age or gender - and I use the 1cm aviary wire for mine. I also always go small on the first enclosure - so either a specific small one or a larger enclosure divided down first - and then still halved. Ideally with mine - for a short split - I like a space each of around a foot square, maybe a little bigger. |
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Post by Markpd on Mar 3, 2023 17:12:14 GMT -8
I keep meaning to do more reading on this, but for now, could some folk tell me how long you should watch 2 adult gerbils after removing the divider? |
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Mar 3, 2023 17:36:00 GMT -8
I keep meaning to do more reading on this, but for now, could some folk tell me how long you should watch 2 adult gerbils after removing the divider? I would say: - Watch them continuously and without distraction for the first 30-40 minutes. - For the next couple of hours after that remain beside the tank but you can be doing other things and you could leave the room for a couple of minutes if needed. - For the remainder of the day, you should check on them regularly but you can leave the room and get on with other things if they seem ok. |
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Post by Markpd on Mar 3, 2023 17:43:58 GMT -8
That's what we've got for pup intro's, so the same time is ok for both groups?
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Mar 3, 2023 17:54:02 GMT -8
That's what we've got for pup intro's, so the same time is ok for both groups? Yes, I think so. |
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Post by betty on Mar 4, 2023 11:25:39 GMT -8
Yep - I agree with Lily&Daisy - although I have had one serious - and unexpected - ball fight at around the 35 minutes mark. I was sure these two were a dead cert - nothing in the split or the first 30 minutes to suggest otherwise.
The only factor in that one that was different to normal was that I left my other half in the same room when I nipped out rather than nobody in there. I'm not saying that they caused it - but perhaps I could have prevented it if I was still there.
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Post by Markpd on Jun 10, 2023 5:00:19 GMT -8
I'd forgotten about this!  Does anyone think there's anything that needs clarifying? Or adding to? (for the traditional split intro). LilyandDaisyCan you remember where you discussed the longer non traditional split? |
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Jun 10, 2023 7:51:07 GMT -8
I'd forgotten about this! Does anyone think there's anything that needs clarifying? Or adding to? (for the traditional split intro). LilyandDaisy Can you remember where you discussed the longer non traditional split? I think I've talked about it in a few different threads but can't remember specifically. It wasn't my idea originally though. I first got the idea of a longer split from one of betty's posts and then used it to introduce Tilly and Wispa, then this idea of a slower/more phased split turned out to be useful for others on the forum as well. |
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Post by betty on Jun 10, 2023 12:20:39 GMT -8
I have done the longer split a few times - but I am wondering if that one mentioned above was when we were discussing a particularly unsociable female I had, where normal shorter splits just weren't working at all for her, and so I created a slightly larger than normal split tank where they were left in a normal set-up each side (so a very small permanent split) and only after weeks had passed did I start random side swaps until I thought were good and then finally I sped it up to a full switch for an intense 3 days and then the intro.
It worked thankfully and those two stayed together until one passed. This was also one of those splits where there was a role reversal. This individual would have normally been described as the dominant one and her friend was actually a submissive one in their previous clan - but this new pair switched them over.
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Post by Markpd on Jun 11, 2023 8:00:51 GMT -8
Ah ok, thanks for that. So am I right in thinking that for the longer splits there's no set timetable (other than being longer than the regular splits), it just depends how they get on? But after how long would you give up and say they're incompatible in this scenario? And the main format difference being that they have a normal set up on each side, at least for most of the split time, with most of the cage items/toys only being removed in the last few days for the daily swapping?
If you can remember the post where you talked more about that unsociable female you did a long split intro, then lmk  (assuming you did post about it), or at least roughly when you wrote about it, &/or the gerbil's name, I'll see if I can find the thread. Btw, re both you & L&D's replies on March 4th, I've increased the constant observation period to 3/4 hr, I added a little for a little leeway.
L&D, after I read a bit of a thread I quoted in my 2nd post here, I think I might have been thinking of your split intro with Tilly and Wispa, I'll (re) check that out at some point. That sounds like an ideal method to me! Who cares if it takes more time if the gerbils are less stressed? This is what I'm going to do. Thanks for your reaction, Lily and Daisy. Have you done it this way? Have you tried out many different methods? I haven't ever reintroduced gerbils but I have done the "slow split" when introducing two adult females (Tilly and Wispa) as Tilly had previously reacted badly to the small, bare split tank. She was increasingly stressed and aggressive in the small split tank.. She was still aggressive at the beginning of the slow split but she calmed down and I think the extra space and enrichment might have helped with that. The introduction took 5 weeks and the gerbils bonded really well. Even though Tilly was so aggressive in the beginning, by the final introduction it was her trying to make friends with Wispa, while Wispa was a little unsure at first but came around. |
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Jun 12, 2023 6:21:55 GMT -8
I think it was this thread where I got the slow split idea. Yes, longer splits don't have a set timetable because it's much more based on your own judgment and intuition (although that's important with normal splits too). There isn't really a set way to do it but the basic idea is that instead moving the gerbils straight from normal enclosures to the split tank, you make it much more gradual. So you would start with something resembling a normal enclosure, with more space than a typical split tank, deeper bedding and more enrichment, and gradually reduce that. One thing with the longer split is if an introduction doesn't work out, you may be able to easily transition to a permanent split simply by increasing the space, bedding and enrichment again, which allows the gerbils to live side-by-side without necessarily ruling out the possibility of another attempt at an introduction in the future (that could even be months down the line - while researching this I found a comment by one breeder who said that she would sometimes just leave two females to live side-by-side, no swapping, and every month or so try an introduction). The circumstances under which I might consider "giving up" with a particular pair would be: - They seem stressed or unhappy living side-by-side and its not getting better even after several weeks and the presence of stress-relieving enrichment such as deep bedding, wheels, plenty of space and so on. In this case even a permanent split wouldn't be a good option. - It didn't seem to be working out or was taking a very long time to work out, and I had better options for both gerbils. For example if I was trying to introduce two adult females and it was proving very difficult, but then I had an opportunity to introduce some young pups instead. In that case, while I wouldn't necessarily be giving up on the adult females, I might consider whether introducing them each to a pup or a different gerbil might not be an easier route to happiness all round. But obviously it depends on the individual situation because not everyone wants to end up with two pairs so sometimes you might be more invested in getting two specific gerbils together. |
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Post by betty on Jun 12, 2023 11:44:38 GMT -8
Absolutely the same as Lily&Daisy;
No planned set time line for the long intro - just as and when things seem ok (and yes, I start to intensify from a normal set up each into a concentrated split before each intro (so less stuff and up the side-swapping)).
Also, same with the give up - if a better option comes along - go for it. However this particular female who I don't think I gave a name for (and genuinely can't remember her name (which is a first for me)) had already had several very nasty splits with pups - so she actually had no better option - so it was an all or nothing really. I would have only split her with another older female - so I thought I would just stick with that current one. Luckily, it worked out.
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Post by LilyandDaisy on Jun 12, 2023 12:35:00 GMT -8
Yes, a pup isn't always an easier option, especially with a "difficult" gerbil. The reason I stopped the introduction between Tilly and Astra was because I felt that Tilly needed a long, slow introduction which isn't appropriate for a young pup. Pups need to spend as much time with adults as possible while they're still learning and developing. Wispa was already nearly an adult when I put her in the split with Tilly so she was a better option. As it turned out, Tilly needed a couple of weeks in the split before she stopped threatening Wispa through the mesh and while I have no evidence for this, it makes sense to me that exposing a young pup to that kind of aggression during the most formative period of their psychological development may have some kind of traumatic effect.
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, and thanks to pepandmax who made the original guide in 2007, of which I used a little of the intro.
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